Safety bars must be secure after installation and you must think long term. Some bars actually come with plastic drywall mounts, you know, the ones where you drill out a small hole, push in the plastic, and then screw to it. If you bought a kit with such directions, disregard them.
First, figure out the height above the tub where you want the bar. With a standard tub I use somewhere around 28″ above the floor. Check your building local codes.
Above, I placed blocking horizontally across the entire length of the back wall (behind the red tape) to screw to.
The vertical bar will screw into the wall stud (see below).
Here you can see both horizontal and vertical bars installed permanently. If you do not use blocking, these bars will surely loosen and you will have to remodel again. This little tip will save you a lot of time and money in the long run.
Lots more tiling tips here.
I hope you found this helpful. If you are looking for a Fairbanks, Alaska contractor do not hesitate to call me at 978-3344, visit our website, or see us on FB to see more recent work.
January 29th, 2013 at 6:27 pm
I agree 100% if this is a new construction or a major remodling. But if for the safety for whom the bars are absolutely necessary, one must seek out a patient skilled craftsman, perhaps like you, to selectively remove tiles to be replaced after retrofit is completed. Yes! Using any kind of wall anchor is asking for possible trouble ahead, since sheetrock is likely the finish wall. What would you say if cinder block is the wall construction which would be a rare occasion but a possiblity. Would skillfully installing heavy duty toggle bolts work? Of course local building codes rule in all decisions. Enjoyed this posting as I use to install such equipment in the past years.
January 29th, 2013 at 6:32 pm
I think I would refer to your comment if I were to install these in cinder block. I think some meaty toggles would be the call. Thanks for reading through. Cheers!
January 29th, 2013 at 7:42 pm
I love what we do– too!
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